On Dec. 18, as the Aegibong Peace Ecopark prepared to close for the day, the zigzagging trail, adorned with tree-shaped lights, lit up brightly. It was a rehearsal ahead of the lighting ceremony scheduled for Dec. 21. /Yang Soo-yeol

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At 5 p.m. on Dec. 18, as dusk descended over Aegibong Peace Ecopark in Wolgot-myeon, Gimpo, a Christmas tree’s lights illuminated the area. At the trail’s end leading to Aegibong Peak, the newly opened Starbucks sign—first lit on Nov. 29—stood out sharply against the fading light. The café's presence, just kilometers from one of the world’s most isolated nations, serves as a vivid symbol of capitalism extending to the edge of the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ).

Aegibong is located within a restricted section of the DMZ that requires visitors to pass through a military checkpoint. Just 1.4 kilometers across the Imjin River lies North Korea’s border county of Kaepung. From the peak, visitors can easily see North Korean civilian villages and Songaksan Mountain.

Gimpo had initially planned to restore a dismantled light tower on the observatory and host a lighting and laser show on Dec. 21. However, citing military concerns amid heightened tensions and leadership uncertainties in the country, the event was canceled. Officials urged restraint to avoid actions that might provoke the North, leading the city to cancel the event.

Instead, an 800-meter path leading to the observatory was decorated with Christmas tree-shaped lights, with a lighting ceremony still scheduled to take place.

The Aegibong light tower, located at the western front's forwardmost point, held its lighting ceremony on Dec. 22, 2012. Its sudden dismantling in 2014 sparked controversy. /News1

On Dec. 21, the trail at Aegibong Peace Ecopark in Gimpo lit up with Christmas tree-shaped lights, a tradition since last year. /Yonhap News

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At dusk, Aegibong Ecopark Starbucks, the only café within the DMZ, glows brightly, contrasting the darkness of North Korea across the river. /Yang Soo-yeol

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The Aegibong Observatory, formerly home to the iconic Aegibong Christmas lighting tower, is now the site of South Korea’s only Starbucks situated within a restricted military zone. Open since Nov. 29, the café operates under stringent security protocols, closing at 4:30 p.m., with all staff required to leave by 5 p.m. Despite these limitations, the venue has drawn steady crowds throughout the day. Its seating arrangements and windows are designed to provide unobstructed views of North Korea.

Since the Starbucks branch opened, park visitor numbers have quadrupled compared to the same period last year, with 56% of visitors aged 50 and older. Mr. Park, 78, who traveled from Ganghwa-do, Incheon, reflected on childhood memories. “I vaguely recall fleeing to the mountains with my parents to escape North Korean soldiers,” he said. “It’s astonishing how close their villages are to our apartment buildings here. I wonder what they think when they look over here.”

For younger visitors and international tourists, the site offers a unique combination of security and cultural tourism. The Associated Press (AP) described the Starbucks Aegibong branch, a striking emblem of global capitalism, as “a powerful symbol of security,” while CNN noted, “You can even see North Koreans walking around,” calling it “one of the few ways to look inside North Korea without crossing the border.” Social media platforms, including Instagram, are flooded with reviews captioned, “A cup of unification latte” or “Savor the aroma of freedom and democracy.” Posts in English, Japanese, and Chinese provide detailed guides on how to visit the location.

On Dec. 18, Mufti, a 28-year-old tourist from Indonesia, stood at the observatory, marveling at the view of North Korea. Using his smartphone camera against a telescope, he captured images of the other side. “Traveling to North Korea is technically possible from Indonesia, but the borders have been closed since COVID-19. That’s why I came here instead,” he explained. “I read about this place—a spot where you can drink Starbucks coffee, a symbol of capitalism, while gazing at the desolate North Korean landscape. I planned an entire day of my trip around visiting this place.”

The first McDonald’s opened in Moscow’s Pushkin Square. During the Cold War, people who couldn’t travel to the U.S. lined up in long queues. /Getty Images

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At dusk, Aegibong Ecopark Starbucks, the only café within the DMZ, glows brightly, contrasting the darkness of North Korea across the river. /Yang Soo-yeol

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On Dec. 18, as the Aegibong Peace Ecopark prepared to close for the day, the zigzagging trail, adorned with tree-shaped lights, lit up brightly. It was a rehearsal ahead of the lighting ceremony scheduled for Dec. 21. /Yang Soo-yeol

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[Lee Mi-ji]

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